Hotels in Zagreb

Zagreb is Croatia's capital and its least touristy major city, a place most visitors skip on the way to the Dalmatian coast and then wish they hadn't. It splits neatly in two. The hilltop Upper Town, Gornji Grad, has gas-lit lanes, the tiled roof of St Mark's Church and the quirky Museum of Broken Relationships. The Lower Town, Donji Grad, is grander and more Austro-Hungarian, built around a chain of parks and squares known as the Green Horseshoe. Café culture is the real draw here: locals linger for hours over coffee on Tkalčićeva street.

The Dolac market, under red umbrellas just above the main square, is worth an early visit. December brings one of Europe's most celebrated Christmas markets. Be honest: there is no sea, the outer districts are drab socialist-era sprawl, and two or three days covers the highlights comfortably. The airport is a short drive from the centre. Stay in Donji Grad near Ban Jelačić Square, where both towns, the market and the tram network are all within walking distance.