Hotels in Copenhagen

Copenhagen does understated extremely well: world-leading restaurants beyond just Noma, design shops you'll browse longer than intended, and a habit of civilised living — harbour baths, bikes outnumbering cars — that visitors leave slightly envious of. Nyhavn's coloured townhouses are the postcard, Tivoli is a genuinely charming old amusement park rather than a tacky one, and Christiania is worth a curious wander.

The catch is cost: Denmark is expensive, and a casual dinner with drinks adds up fast. The city is compact and flat, so hire a bike and you're effectively a local. Stay in Indre By for the walkable centre, Vesterbro around Værnedamsvej for the best food and bar streets, or Nørrebro for a rougher-edged, more multicultural neighbourhood with excellent coffee and lower rates.